Katmai National Park

Oh, the shame of it. As usual, I’m remiss with updating the blog in a timely manner. Now that we’re back home, I’m finally getting around to adding the final entry for our Alaska trip.

As mentioned in the last update, we decided to ship the bike back to Florida from Anchorage instead of the original plan of riding to Haines, Alaska for the 3-day ferry to Washington State.

We were able to arrange shipping with Mike from Alaska Classic Motion in Anchorage. We dropped off the bike for shipping and, as scheduled, left for Katmai National Park the next day with our daughter Ciara and her partner, Willis. Ciara had won a lottery for a reservation slot to stay overnight in Katmai for 3 nights so we were able to join them on the trip. Without a reservation, only day trips are possible unless one camps.

To get to Katmai, we had to fly from Anchorage to King Salmon via Alaska Airlines and then take a sea plane via Katmai Air to the Brooks Camp in the park.

On the sea plane from King Salmon to Katmai National Park

We made it and the weather could not have been better. I was expecting dull, cool and wet days.

We stayed in Brooks Lodge and while it may sound glamorous, it was a basic cabin with two bunk beds but it was en-suite with a sink, toilet and shower.

Our home at Brooks Camp. We were all still talking to each other after three nights in “close quarters.”

The cabin had all modern conveniences including bed, sink, toilet and shower except no internet for 3 days.

Being “senior citizens”, Ger and I claimed the bottom bunks. For three days we were able to watch the bears (and salmon) up close in the river and at Brooks Falls (live webcam). We were really lucky because the amount of bears “dining” at Brooks Falls was at least a dozen at any one time.

Salmon feeding frenzy at Brooks Falls

Salmon everywhere.

Bears eating salmon pretty much all day

Filleting a Salmon for dinner after catching it at Brooks Falls while attempting to swim upstream

Glamour shot

We even witnessed some evening bear wrestling matches right outside our cabin. The park rangers try to keep the bears out of the lodging area but it can be a full-time job.

One of numerous play fights between the younger bears

On our second full day, we took a bus tour to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes which included a 3.4 mile (5.4 km) round trip (1000 feet (305 m) of elevation change} hike down to the valley floor. Ger was able to hike the round trip despite her foot issue so the rest and recuperation in Anchorage definitely paid off.

The floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

The last of the summer fireweed on the trail down to the valley floor

Ger boarding the seaplane to depart

After Katmai, we returned the same route to Anchorage and flew back to Portland for a few days before returning home. Shortly after our return to Florida, our bike shipment arrived at the local BMW dealer, Power Motorcycles USA, and we we had to un-crate it in their parking lot.

We couldn’t roll the bike out of the crate without proper tools so we (with the help of Bill from the dealer) laid it down on it’s right side and pulled the crate base out from under, then lifted the bike upright. Forgot to get a photo in the heat of the moment.

Now, we need to clean all the muck off the bike, change the oil and prepare the bike for any future trip (thinking of Ecuador in 2026).

Other than modifying our return plans, we really lucked out with the weather for the entire 2,400 mile trip. We only had to ride in rain a few times and the rain wasn’t heavy enough to warrant full wet gear but it was on the cool side.

Tok to Anchorage

From Tok, our next stop was Glennallen.  Our original plan was to spend two nights here and take a day trip to Valdez.

When leaving Tok, Ger pulled a muscle/tendon in her foot (related to plantar fasciitis) so we canceled the Valdez day trip and rested up.

Glennallen is a fairly rural area and, why they do have a small medical clinic, we decided to press on to the Palmer/Wasilla area about an hour north of Anchorage. 

The weather cooperated with clear skies and we were able to get a glimpse of several glaciers to the South on our way.

We found an orthopedic urgent care clinic where Ger was seen immediately and treated to a dreaded injection in the foot.

That helped a bit but still not fully recovered.  We rested up in Palmer for a few days with an occasional short day trip around the area before checking into our Airbnb in Anchorage.

Palmer railroad station. Palmer was only founded in the 1950s

The weather continued to cooperate and we were able to take a day trip on the Portage Glacier Highway to Whittier on a rare dry sunny day. Whittier normally receives nearly 200 inches of rain annually so we lucked out big time.

The water is crystal clear

One of several remnants of glaciers on the way to and from Whittier

The population is less than 300 and most residents live in the Begich Towers building that houses city resources including tunnels to the school and other locations.

Begich Towers Condominium

To get there, we had to ride between railroad tracks through the 2.5 mile Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.  It’s a one-way system where traffic alternates on the hour to and from Whittier.  Prior to upgrading the tunnel in 2000, the only way to get to Whittier on land was by railroad.

The tunnel is the longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel in North America.

Main rule: stay between the railway tracks and don’t crash.

Inside the railroad tunnel

Approaching the tunnel entrance

Due to the weather forecast becoming wetter and cooler combined with Ger’s foot injury, we’ve decided to ship the bike back instead of riding back through Canada and the ferry from Haines.

Our main goal was to ride to Anchorage by August 15th so we could take a planned trip to Katmai National Park so we’re declaring victory and will get ready for our trip to Katmai.

Hopefully, we’ll get to see a few brown bears on our last few days in Alaska.

Destruction Bay, Yukon Territory to Tok, Alaska

We heard there are two seasons in the Yukon territory in Alaska – Winter and Construction!

Starting just past Destruction Bay, the permafrost takes a toll on road surfaces so there’s lots of heaves, bumps, holes etc …

We started to hit various patches of gravel and washboard road surface.  Luckily there was a light rain which kept the dust down.

Motorcycles beware

Border crossing was quick and easy and we were the only ones crossing at that time.

Once we crossed into Alaska, we ran into a 16 mile stretch of road construction where a pilot vehicle had to guide us through the roadworks.

Pilot vehicle for 16 miles of road construction

We were pretty exhausted when we finally reached Tok. Even though we didn’t do that high of a mileage, the road conditions made it a little more challenging than normal for the 6-hour ride. Plus, we only took one break off the bike for coffee and fuel at Beaver Creek.

A bonus surprise for us when we ran into Jean-Luc again. We originally met him and his son on the ferry from Vancouver Island. 

Jean-Luc (last name not Picard)

Since we have some spare time before we need to be in Anchorage, we’re taking 2 days in Tok to relax before heading off for for Glennallen.

Watson Lake to Destruction Bay

Departed Watson Lake after taking the obligatory photo outside of the Signpost Forest.

Signpost Forest, Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada

The Signpost Forest was started by a homesick GI in 1942. He was assigned light duty while recovering from an injury and erected the signpost for his hometown: Danville, Ill. 2835 miles.

We overnighted in Whitehorse which is the capital of the Yukon territory.  It has all modern conveniences such as Walmart and other chain businesses. We had originally planned to stay two nights but decided to press on for Destruction Bay which I’m glad we did!

Destruction Bay is fairly remote with one motel and fuel stop. Beautiful surroundings and very peaceful.  We tried to stay up until sunset but sunset wasn’t until 11:00 p.m.

An Artic Squirrel joined us for dinner. They live under the deck outside of the motel rooms.

Didn’t see any elk. They are probably on higher ground until winter.

Typical scenery along the Alaska Highway.

Nearly sunset. I think there was always a glimmer of light in the sky all night. Official night time was only about 6 hours.

The next day head for Tok, Alaska and from what we hear the road conditions get interesting.

Cassiar Highway (Prince Rupert to Watson Lake)

We rode from Prince Rupert to Bell II which is around halfway up the Cassiar Highway.

Weather has been great except for a few heavy showers between Meziadin Junction and Bell II.

Saw one bear on the side of the road just before Meziadin Junction and a cub ran out across us shortly after that. I’m sure Mama Bear was very nearby.

Bear cub having lunch

Fuel is only available at certain locations so we are topping up the bike at every opportunity. Also, only 87 octane fuel is available at some of the remote locations such as Bell II.

Bell II. One of the few locations on the Cassiar Highway for fuel and lodging.

Departed Bell II and after Dease Lake saw a red fox but despite the warning signs for Caribou the only other wildlife we saw were scurrying chipmunk-like creatures (Artic squirrels?) and birds!

General store at Dease Lake. They stock everything including boat outboard engines, hardware, groceries and greeting cards.

Spent the night in Watson Lake, Yukon Territory and heading to Whitehorse tomorrow.  These were two of our longest days with about 310 miles (6.5 hours).  Long enough for two old farts on a motorcycle!

Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert

Our 17-hour ferry arrived after midnight so we’re taking a planned rest day (regroup and laundry day) in the port city of Prince Rupert.

The Port of Prince Rupert is the closest North American West Coast port to Asia, 500 nautical miles closer than other ports in the Pacific Northwest. This can save up to 60 hours’ sailing time.

That explains all the shipping containers you see when arriving on the ferry. It’s a 24-hour operation.

It’s also the deepest natural harbour in North America and remains ice free.

Prince Rupert container operations

Tomorrow we head halfway up the Cassiar Highway (British Columbia Route 37) to Watson Lake. The Cassiar is about 450 miles long with no cell phone service (some stops/fuel stations may have limited Wi-Fi).

Hopefully the weather holds because the scenery is plentiful!

Vancouver Island, Canada

We caught the ferry on schedule from Port Angeles, Washington to Victoria Canada.

Our granddaughter, Roisin, provided us with a travel companion who helped us get the bike strapped down on the ferry. 

Our travel companion helped us get the bike strapped down on the ferry.

We overnighted about an hour north in a little fishing village at Cowichin Bay and enjoyed breakfast on the B&B balcony. 

Dream Weaver B&B

The Cowichan Valley supposedly has the highest average temperature in Canada which helps the local wine industry.

The next day we completed the 280 mile ride to Port Hardy where we’re staying two nights before catching the ferry bright and early Friday morning.

Off to Alaska

All packed up and on the road again to A L A S K A.

We shipped the bike from Florida to Portland, Oregon in May and left Portland this morning.

Our plan is to catch a ferry from Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Washington to Vancouver Island, Canada and a second ferry from Port Hardy at the North of Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert, British Columbia.

From there, we’ll head up the Cassiar Highway (which we did in 2022 but had to turn back because the Alaska highway was washed out by a beaver dam break) connecting with Alaska (ALCAN) Highway to Anchorage Alaska.

All going well. We have a mini trip planned from Anchorage to Katmai National Park.

On our way back, we’re planning to depart from Haines, Alaska on a 3-day ferry to Bellingham Washington and then ride back to Portland, Oregon.

Wish us luck as we may need it on this 15-year-old bike that has nearly 70,000 mi on it!

In Port Angeles, Washington waiting for the ferry to Victoria, Canada.

Newfoundland

Traveling long distances on a motorcycle can be hard sometimes but finding time to update a blog is harder. So, I’m about a month late with this installment. Spoiler alert: we’re safely back home in Florida.

On our way to the ferry we did the Cabot Trail loop which includes the Cape Breton National Park. The Cabot trail has mixed reviews from other riders but we enjoyed the ride and scenery. It was a nice leisurely break from some of the main roads.

The overnight sailing from North Sydney to Argentia (not Argentina) was very smooth and we arrived in Newfoundland around 10:00 a.m. refreshed and ready to go. 

Sunset from the ferry to Argentia

We met another traveler (Rick) on the ferry that had bicycled all the way from Victoria BC and doing same route as us ( Mile 0 West to Mile 0 East)

The weather on arrival was damp and cool (approximately a 30° F difference than the temperature the previous day in Nova Scotia).

We racked up 7,000 miles since departing in June so we stopped at the Toy Box on our way into St John’s to get the bike oil and filter changed .

St John’s is the oldest city in North America. It’s also a busy port and it was fascinated to see all the activity and all the different types of ships.  There were numerous ships that are used to supply offshore rigs. It must be quite an experience to sail out into the Atlantic in the dead of winter on one of them.

One of many offshore supply ships

Street Art

Since we started our journey on the TransCanada Highway at mile marker 0 in Victoria British Columbia we wanted to also document the end at mile marker 0 in Newfoundland.  We found out the marker isn’t where it should be so we had to use the historical marker at City Hall for our photo op.

The End (or beginning depending on which way you’re heading)

We were able to visit another mile zero marker mark the start of Terry Fox’s marathon of hope (cancer support).  You can read about Terry’s mission here.

We saw references (parks, stadiums, streets, highways) Terry all across Canada.

Lots of Irish references in Newfoundland including numerous Irish pubs in St John’s. Our rest day was rainy and cold (low 50° F) so a visit to the pub for lunch was in order.

On our way out of St John’s we headed to Cape Spear lighthouse which is the most easterly point of Canada (and of North America). It was a bit windy but the weather was kind to us and only a light drizzle. We seem to have a knack of running into folks along the road that we met on a previous ferry. Low behold we bumped into Rick again!  His partner Stephen have flown out from Victoria to surprise him while he cycled into St John’s!

Cape Spear Lighthouse

From Cape Spear we headed across Newfoundland through Gander. Gander was one of the towns where many of the planes from 9/11 or routed. Gander residents rallied to accommodate and feed many of the passengers that were stranded until air travel was permitted again. 

All are welcome in Gander

Newfoundland’s first ever escalator at the Gander International Airport

Thank you letter to Gander residents from Lufthansa Airlines

Gander Airport (a small airport that played a BIG role on 9/11)

We spend our last night before arriving at the Horizons Unlimited event at Upper Humber Settlement (a b&b on a farm).

Three little pigs

Fine Dining in the Greenhouse

After 2 months and approx 7000 miles, we finally arrived at our primary destination, the Horizons Unlimited Newfoundland Event. Thanks to all the organizers, presenters, volunteers and site staff that made the event a success.

We made it!

We had a great time at the Horizons Unlimited event and met lots of fellow world travelers who arrived by bicycle, camper van and motorcycle (gasoline and electric). On one of the days we took advantage of good weather and took a ride out to Trout River on the West coast.

Trout River Fishing Boats

Gros Morne National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Gros Morne National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Gros Morne National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Robert’s Fish Store in Woody Point – historic building preserved for fisheries heritage

Fishing boats, Trout River

We had a soggy ride from the event down to the ferry at Channel-Port aux Basques. Enroute we stopped in the town of “Doyles” to mail a few postcards.

Made it to Doyles

The weather cleared to allow us to stroll around Channel-Port aux Basques after we arrived.

Cleaning the daily catch just like South Quay, Arklow

Cleaning up after the fish were cleaned

Some hotels know how to cater to motorcyclists with special parking by the front door

The crossing from Channel-Port aux Basques is reported to be rough at times but we lucked out and had a very smooth 7-hour sailing back to North Sydney, Nova Scotia. It was bitter sweet as it began the last leg of our journey heading for home.

We’ll head down to Long Island NY to visit family and then down the East coast for Florida.

Quebec City, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia

Who knew we’d pass through Winnie the Pooh’s hometown?

Winnie the Pooh Brass Memorial in White River, Ontario.

The more East we get the more French language we encounter but hasn’t caused any issues. We seem to get along fine with our limited understanding of French and most people have some English.  We’re starting to hit a few toll roads as well and so far no problems as we can pay as we go.

We usually avoid large cities when traveling on the motorcycle due to traffic congestion and parking but we decided visit Quebec City as an exception.

We stayed just outside the outskirts of Old Town and used an Uber to get in and out.

You could spend all day just strolling around the cobblestone streets and shops. Much of it reminded us of cities and towns in Europe which isn’t surprising given the connection to France.

Old Quebec City

310 steps from the Quebec Promenade up to the Plains of Abraham

Toboggan sled ride is a winter tradition

Château Frontenac Hotel with its copper roof

We didn’t realize it but the day we were there coincided with the Pope’s visit.

Pope motorcade motorcycle police escorts staying at hotel

Plains of Abraham Papal stage

We were going to hang out with the crowd at the plains of Abraham to view his events on the big screen but it was a miserably hot day and so we decided to visit the art museum.  I’m not a big fan of museums in general but the art museum was actually quite good.

As we were getting ready to leave the museum the Pope’s motorcade started passing by. At first I was trying to figure out which of the big black SUVs the pope was traveling in but then he zipped by in his little white Fiat! I think it may even I’ve been a Fiat 500!

Hello Geraldine! I didn’t know you were in town.

He picked us out of the crowd and gave us a wave.

Continuing East from Quebec we and the opportunity of attending our first pow wow gathering.  We were able to witness ceremonial traditions, native dress and dance in addition to rubbing shoulders with some of the chiefs.

The Chief among the Chiefs

Start of the grand entrance

Drum Roll Call

Next stop was a visit to Prince Edward Island (PEI).  I didn’t realize it was its own province. There’s only two options to get there, toll bridge or ferry. We opted for the toll bridge and glad we did because it’s amazingly long. It’s supposed to be the longest (8 miles) bridge in the world over ice-covered water..

The toll is fairly hefty ($50) for cars but motorcycles get a break for $20! You only pay the toll leaving the island so getting there is free!

Confederation Bridge from the PEI side.

Lots of nice rolling hills and roads on the island and lots of agriculture. We saw lots of fields with new potatoes and other farms and cattle.

It’s peak season now so the beaches were fairly crowded.

Thunder Cove Beach

Our next stop after PEI was in Truro to see the bore tide on the Bay of Fungy. Twice a day much of the bay and contributing rivers empty out and fill back up again!  It’s hard to show in static pictures but there’s several examples on the internet showing a time lapse of what happens over the course of 6 hours.

Bored waiting for the Bore Tide

Tide has started to come in and in a few hours will be about 20 feet higher

Tomorrow we head towards Cape Breton Island to do a loop around the coast before arriving in North Sydney for the ferry to Newfoundland.